Wayfarer

This is one I’ve been looking forward to writing. I first reviewed Wayfarer in January 2024 from a pop-up at Mike Dew’s kitchen. I was highly impressed (you can go back and read that initial review). Now, I’m updating my review for the brick-and-mortar “Wayfarer Tavern” in Dayton, KY (perhaps my favorite Dayton in the Tri-State). It’s been quite a year: Wayfarer has quickly become the toast of the town, particularly among pizza connoisseurs. Mike has an admirable dedication to craft and excellence, which is palpable in all the details of @wayfarertavern.

Wayfarer Tavern does “Tavern Style” pizza, broadly defined. Orthodox ‘tavern style’ should feature small, thin, rigid, rectangular slices that can easily be eaten with one hand (preserving the option of holding a cold, fermented beverage in the other hand). There are various versions of tavern style in the Midwest: Chicago, St. Louis, Columbus, Dayton, etc. For most of these bar pizzas, the crust can be more structural to hold the toppings rather than flavorful on its own. But a great pizza needs to have a great crust (pizza is generally mostly crust). That is the case here. Drawing from a variety of influences, Mike has honed a proprietary style of flavorful tavern-style crust. Crucially, it is pan-made with Detroit-style caramelized cheese on the sides and a lightly fried finish. This gives it a crisp - but not too dense - texture, with a great buttery flavor. This balance of crunch and flavor stems from a well-hydrated dough that delivers an airy interior.

With that combination of crisp yet airy, flavorful, and quietly refined elements, Wayfarer is perfect for anyone who values excellence in both dough and toppings. Ultimately, these combined styles culminate in a standout crust that clearly sets the bar for tavern style in the region.*

*Toward that, I have some Chicago thin-crust reviews planned in the coming months. We’ll see if they can compete.